Monday, 13 February 2012

Start by Drafting a Basic Bodice Block

Get started with some basic pattern cutting by creating a basic bodice block. From this you can create  endless upper body garments.
  1.  If you are creating this block for yourself or a model, then make it in paper first, add seam allowances (1/4",1cm is usual) Tip: if you don't have pattern cutting paper, old rolls of wrapping paper or brown paper are fine. Use a pencil with hard lead 1H or 2H
  2. Cut the bodice out in basic woven fabric and stitch up, leaving some simple opening so that it can be tried on.  Tip: This garment is called a toile and is usually made in calico but you could use almost any woven fabric.
  3. Have the garment tried on and work on the fit with pins or pens, then redraw the block with any alterations from the fitting. Tip: Make the final block in card so that you can keep re-using it.   
Happy pattern drafting!

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24 comments:

  1. Fashion Auntie14 February 2012 at 16:33

    This is in inches....alternative metric version soon

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  2. Unknown29 October 2013 at 10:37

    thank you ^^

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  3. Unknown3 December 2013 at 10:33

    Great!!!

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  4. Sanifu Limited28 February 2014 at 04:06

    hi
    i am curious as to which book this is scanned from, i would like to make more blocks, the chart is invaluable
    or you could do more on the blocks, I would really appreciate it

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  5. Fashion Auntie4 March 2014 at 08:39

    Hi and many thanks for your question. This has been incredibly popular!
    I found this in a library from the University I studied at. It was a very old book. Sorry I can't remember the title. I'm not planning to add any blocks at the moment. I'm very busy with my business www.realgrace.co.uk Happy cutting, Jane

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  6. Unknown4 May 2015 at 04:30

    thank you so much for the detailed instructions.... i have been trying to create a bodice pair with darts only in the back bodice....i intend to stitch a dress with darts only at the back.....but the stitching line seem not to overlap...is it possible to do so if yes could you pls give me some insight on the same

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  7. Unknown4 May 2015 at 14:17

    Hi, I'm not quite sure what you mean. Why do you want the stitching line to overlap? How will it fit a body without some shaping in the front? Are you using jersey fabric?

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  8. Unknown5 May 2015 at 01:32

    hey jane ...thanks for replying... i basically want to stitch an Indian kurti which usually does not have stitched waist darts in the front....so should i not incorporate darts at all in the front block or leave them unstitched and not add extra ease in the waistline...i want to keep a separate block for Indian patterns...thank you

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  9. Diva12 May 2015 at 20:30

    Hi there. I just came upon your draft. I've been looking for one for the longest while. Thank you very much. I most certainly would be trying this out.

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  10. Diva12 May 2015 at 20:30

    Hi there. I just came upon your draft. I've been looking for one for the longest while. Thank you very much. I most certainly would be trying this out.

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  11. Reflections12 January 2016 at 03:13

    Hi, thanks a lot for publishing this draft. I did a size 10 and it's perfect fit. However, I missed the 1cm seam but it still worked well. Got lot of praises. Have to do one for me now. I eased the darts a little to accommodate slightly bigger waist size.

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  12. Reflections12 January 2016 at 03:18

    I also did a small shoulder dart and the fit is amazing

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  13. Unknown12 January 2016 at 10:44

    please what of the sleeves

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  14. Unknown6 February 2016 at 07:09

    hola como estas me podrias indicar el nombre del libro, lo encuentro muy interesante y me gustaria comprarlo

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  15. Unknown1 August 2016 at 22:34

    Thanks will try it.

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  16. James Smith8 October 2018 at 05:18

    Nice stuff dear. Thanks for sharing it. Anyone here looking for
    Leading Kids wear manufacturer and exporter company. I suggest you to visit Saivana Exports.

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  17. GirlWithColors27 March 2019 at 21:05

    Procedure aslo

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  18. Alter Ego curves6 April 2019 at 06:44

    This comment has been removed by the author.

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  19. Alter Ego curves6 April 2019 at 06:45

    Please could you do a skirt block for us? This is invaluable by the way. Thank you.

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  20. Unknown26 April 2020 at 11:24

    The draft is obviously from book:
    Pattern Drafting And Grading By Michael Rohr.
    The book (1961 edition) is in the public domain.
    www.archive.org

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    Replies
    1. Edna Siu24 May 2021 at 12:33

      thank you for sharing the book that can be found, I am very appreciated with this information which is very helpful.

      Delete
  21. Anonymous11 November 2020 at 08:25

    My mom would like this. I will share it with her.

    Carson

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  22. Hilda21 September 2021 at 06:25

    Auntie, how do you determine or get that 2" of H to Z?

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  23. Middle age female23 February 2023 at 09:19

    are those sizes US sizes

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